Chasing Your Dog Shouting “Cheese, Cheese, What’s This?
How to Finally Get a Rock-Solid Recall
Does your recall look like this: you, red‑faced and breathless, chasing your dog across the park shouting “cheese, cheese, what’s this?!” while they gleefully sprint in the opposite direction?
If so, you’re not alone. Many owners in Norwich and beyond find that their dog’s recall works beautifully in the kitchen but mysteriously disappears the moment a squirrel, another dog or a fluttering crisp packet appears. It’s frustrating, embarrassing and, most importantly, unsafe.
Now imagine this instead: you call your dog once, in a calm, confident voice. They flick their head, choose you over the distraction in front of them, and sprint back with a huge waggy tail, thrilled to have found you. That’s what a reliable recall looks like—and it’s absolutely possible for most dogs with the right approach, even if things currently feel chaotic.
In this article, we’re going to look at why recall often fails, three practical ways you can start improving it today, and when it makes sense to get hands-on help through structured programmes like day training or residential dog training in Norwich. Think of this as your step‑by‑step guide to turning “cheese, cheese!” into calm, dependable recall.
Why recall fails (and it’s not because your dog is “stubborn”)
Many owners are told their dog is “stubborn”, “defiant” or “ignoring them on purpose”. In reality, recall is one of the most complex skills we ask of our dogs: they must stop what they are doing, turn away from something exciting and run back to you instead. That’s a big ask.
Here are some of the most common reasons recall goes wrong:
It’s only practiced in easy environments. Many dogs are taught recall in the house or garden, then expected to perform the same behaviour in a busy park full of smells, people and other dogs without any gradual build‑up. That’s like learning to drive in an empty car park and then being thrown straight onto a motorway. Dogs arent very good at generalising so being consistent with your training is key.
The recall cue has become “background noise”. Calling their name or shouting “come!” repeatedly while they ignore you teaches your dog that your cue doesn’t really mean anything. Over time, the word loses value.
Recall is only used to end fun. If the only time your dog hears their recall cue is when the lead goes on and fun is over, they quickly learn that coming back makes life less interesting.
Big feelings are involved. Reactivity, anxiety, frustration or sheer over‑excitement can all override previously trained recall, which is why some dogs seem “perfect” until a trigger appears.
None of this means your dog is untrainable. It just means recall has been built on a foundation that doesn’t yet work in real‑world conditions. The good news is that you can start rebuilding that foundation straight away with three key strategies: charging your marker properly, using a long line to safely rehearse success and being consistent with your training.
Tip 1: Changing how you reward – it’s a dine‑in, not a drive‑through
The first big change is how you reward your dog for coming back. Many owners use the same treat, delivered in the same quick way, every single time. Over time, recall becomes a boring “drive‑through” experience: pull up, take the food, drive off. Functional, but forgettable.
We want recall to feel like a dine‑in restaurant instead—an experience your dog looks forward to.
What are variable rewards?
A variable reward schedule simply means your dog never quite knows what’s coming, only that coming when called is always worth it. Sometimes it’s one treat, sometimes it’s a handful, sometimes it’s a favourite toy or a game. This unpredictability keeps recall exciting and maintains motivation long-term.
Think about a slot machine: people keep playing because the reward is unpredictable and sometimes huge. We can use the same principle positively in training (without the gambling habit).
How to turn recall into a dine‑in experience
You can start transforming your rewards with three simple changes:
Mix up the type of reward. Rotate between:
High‑value treats (chicken, cheese, sausage, whatever your dog loves and can safely eat).
Toys (tug, ball, squeaky toy if safe and appropriate).
Social rewards (praise, fuss, a quick “chase me!” game).
The key is that the reward actually matters to your dog in that moment.
Vary the amount and duration. Sometimes they get:
One small treat and a quick “good dog!”
Five or six treats delivered one by one with calm praise.
A 20–30 second play session with a favourite toy.
Let recall feel like opening a mystery goodie bag, not collecting the same pay packet every time.
Use “release” as a powerful reward. Often, the best reward for coming back is being allowed to go and enjoy freedom again. After a brilliant recall:
Reward with food or play.
Pop the lead on briefly if you need to for safety.
If possible, release them to “go play” or “go sniff” again.
This teaches your dog that coming back doesn’t always mean the fun ends—it can be a pit stop before more fun.
A simple recall game to try this week
Pick a safe, enclosed space or put your dog on a long line. Have 10–15 high‑value treats and a toy with you.
Let your dog move away and start sniffing.
Call them using your recall cue in a happy, clear voice once.
When they turn and start coming towards you, get excited—encourage them in.
When they reach you, throw them a “recall party”: multiple treats, praise, a little game, then release them to go sniff again.
Repeat this several times in a short session. Over time, your dog will start thinking, “If I sprint back, amazing things happen!”
Tip 2: Charge your marker properly (and stop confusing your dog)
If you’ve heard trainers say “you need to charge your marker” and thought it sounded like jargon, this section is for you.
A marker is a word (like “yes!” or “good”) or a sound (like a clicker) that tells your dog, “That behaviour, right there, is what will earn a reward.” It acts as a bridge between behaviour and reinforcement and massively boosts clarity.
Common marker mistakes
Many owners accidentally “flatten” their marker by:
Saying “yes” or “good” all the time as general praise, not as a precise marker.
Using the marker sometimes and forgetting to reward afterwards.
Expecting the dog to understand the marker in busy environments before it has been clearly taught at home.
If your dog hears “yes” 50 times a day with no pattern, the word becomes background noise.
How to charge your marker in three steps
Pick a marker word you like and can say consistently. “Yes” or “Nice” works well, as it’s short and upbeat.
At home in a quiet room, say your marker once. Do not ask your dog to do anything. Just say “Yes!” in a normal, happy tone.
Immediately follow it with a treat. The sequence is: marker → treat. Not the other way around. Repeat 10–15 times. Your dog should start to look excited as soon as they hear the word.
Repeat daily for a week. Keep sessions short and fun. After several days, observe: when you say “Yes!”, does your dog’s body language change? Do they look at you expectantly? If so, your marker is “charged”.
Once the marker has meaning, you can start using it to pinpoint good recall moments:
Dog flicks their head towards you when you call – “Yes!” → reward.
Dog abandons a distraction and runs back – “Yes!” → bigger reward.
Dog checks in with you voluntarily – “Yes!” → reward.
Busting a common myth
One popular myth is that you don’t need to bother with markers because “dogs just figure it out.” While some dogs do learn despite fuzzy communication, a clear marker dramatically speeds up learning and helps when you later increase distractions. It’s a small habit that pays off for years.
In structured programmes like day training or residential dog training, good trainers use consistent markers and keep them “topped up” with regular reinforcement, so the dog always knows when they’ve made the right choice. You can absolutely do the same at home.
Tip 3: Long line + engagement – safe practice for real‑world recall
A long line (not an extendable flexi lead, but a flat line of 5–10 metres or more) is one of the most useful tools for improving recall. It gives your dog freedom to move while keeping everyone safe and preventing rehearsals of running off.
Why a long line helps
A long line allows you to:
Practise recall before your dog is ready for full off‑lead freedom.
Prevent them from finding reinforcement in running away or playing keep‑away.
Gently guide them back if they get “stuck” on a distraction.
The aim is not to drag your dog around, but to use the line as a safety net while you build genuine engagement and choice.
Step‑by‑step long line recall
You can use this progression over several weeks:
Set up in a low‑distraction environment. A quiet field, large garden or open space is ideal. Attach the long line to a harness (not a collar) to protect your dog’s neck.
Let your dog wander and sniff. Keep the line loose. You want them to feel like they have freedom, not that they’re being reeled in.
Call them once using your recall cue. Make your voice bright and friendly. Avoid repeating the cue if possible.
Use the line only if they ignore you. If they don’t respond, gently step on the line to prevent them going further, then apply light pressure and encourage them in with your body language and voice. As soon as they commit to coming towards you, release the pressure and praise.
Mark and reward generously when they arrive. Use your charged marker (“Yes!”), then deliver a good reward—remember the dine‑in principle.
Release them back to explore. If it’s safe, allow them to go back to sniffing as part of the reward. They’ll learn that coming back doesn’t mean the fun ends.
Build engagement, not just obedience
As you practise, look for opportunities to reward check‑ins—those moments when your dog looks back at you or returns to you without being called.
When they glance at you: mark and reward.
When they trot back voluntarily: mark and reward.
When they choose you over a mild distraction: bigger “party”.
This builds the habit of keeping you in their “mental bubble”, which is crucial for reliable recall in busier environments.
Fun engagement games to add to walks
You can sprinkle in some simple games to keep your dog tuned in:
“Catch me if you can.” Call your dog, then run a few steps the other way as they turn towards you (long line loose and safe). Many dogs love to chase, and you become part of the fun.
Hide‑and‑seek. In a safe space, duck behind a tree or change direction when your dog is distracted (but still within sight). Call them and have a big reward ready when they “find” you.
Two‑person ping‑pong recall. If you have a friend or family member, stand 10–15 metres apart and take turns calling the dog back and forth, rewarding each recall. This builds momentum and enthusiasm.
The more your dog learns that you are fun, predictable and rewarding, the less tempting the environment becomes.
Putting it all together
At this point, you might be thinking, “This sounds great, but it also sounds like a lot.” And you’re right—building a rock‑solid recall does take time, consistency and repetition. There’s no magic word or secret whistle that turns a dog with no training into a recall superstar overnight.
However, by combining:
Better rewards (dine‑in, not drive‑through).
A clear marker that actually means something.
Long line practice that prevents mistakes and rehearses success.
…you will start to see real change. It might be subtle at first: your dog looks at you more often, comes back a little faster, chooses you over a low‑level distraction. Over weeks and months, those small wins add up to a dog who turns on a sixpence when you call, even in busy real‑world environments.
And if your current reality is running across Mousehold Heath or Eaton Park shouting “cheese!” at the top of your lungs while your dog plays chase‑me with the entire dog‑walking community… there is absolutely a way out of that.
When you might need more than DIY training
Sometimes recall problems are part of a bigger picture. If your dog is:
Reacting to other dogs or people.
Utterly fixated on wildlife or scents.
Highly anxious or easily overwhelmed.
Practised at running off or playing keep‑away.
…then working alone, especially in small pockets of time, can feel like one step forward, two steps back
.
That’s where structured support—especially real‑world, hands‑on training—can make the difference between “we’re muddling through” and “this finally feels under control”.
How day training and residential training can help recall
With day training, your dog spends full training days with a professional who focuses on building engagement, recall and neutrality around real‑life distractions, then comes home to you in the evenings to rest. This combines intensive progress for the dog with continuity for you at home.
With residential dog training in Norwich, your dog lives with the trainer as a temporary member of the household. This allows for:
Multiple, structured training sessions throughout the day.
Practice in a wide range of environments—home, street, parks, town.
Real‑world exposure around dogs, people and everyday distractions.
Tight control over rehearsal, so your dog is not practising the very behaviours you’re trying to change.
Good residential programmes don’t just “fix the dog” and hand them back. They should also include:
Thorough handover sessions where you learn the cues, handling skills and strategies your dog understands.
Written notes or videos you can refer back to.
Follow‑up support so you’re not left on your own after the stay.
This ensures that the beautiful recall you see during handover doesn’t disappear once you’re back in your usual walking spots.
Is this the right next step for you?
If you’ve already tried:
Basic recall training at home.
Better treats, different cues or even whistles.
Avoiding certain places because recall feels unsafe.
…and you’re still struggling, then it may be time to talk to a professional about tailored recall training, whether that’s through group classes, day training or a residential board and train programme. An experienced trainer can quickly identify why your dog’s recall is breaking down and build a plan that fits both your goals and your dog’s temperament.
Ready to turn “cheese, cheese, what’s this?” into reliable recall?
You don’t have to keep dreading off‑lead walks or avoiding your favourite spaces because you’re worried your dog won’t come back. With the right training plan—and, where needed, the right hands‑on support—recall can become one of the most enjoyable parts of sharing your life with a dog.
If you’d like personalised help with your dog’s recall in and around Norwich, including:
Group recall and obedience classes.
Focused day training packages.
Comprehensive residential board and train programmes designed to rebuild behaviour in real‑world environments.
…get in touch to tell us a bit about your dog and your goals. From there, we can advise whether a recall‑focused package, behaviour modification stay or foundation obedience programme is the best fit, and map out a clear plan to get you from park‑chasing panic to calm, confident recall.
Ready to stop chasing your dog across the park?
You don't have to keep dreading off-lead walks. You don't have to skip your favourite spots, or shout "cheese!" across Eaton Park while everyone watches.
A reliable recall is possible for most dogs. It just needs the right plan, built around your dog and practised where it matters, in the real world.
That's what we do. Whether your dog needs group classes, focused day training or a residential board and train programme, we'll work out why their recall breaks down and build a plan you can actually follow.
No quick fixes. Just calm, confident recall, and a walk you enjoy again.
Tell us about your dog and what's going wrong. We'll tell you honestly what will help.
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